10 Nov Factory Direct vs Hardware Store Cupboards

When you need new cupboards, there are two obvious places to look: a hardware store down the road, or a factory that sells directly to you. Both can work, and the right choice depends on your project, your timeline and how long you want the cupboards to last. Rather than tell you which is better, this guide shows what to compare: board thickness, edging, doors and after-sales support.

Use it for any supplier you consider.

Two Ways to Buy

A hardware store usually stocks ready-made units that you can load into the car the same day. That convenience is real, and it suits a quick fix or a small job. Buying from a factory works differently.

The maker sells to you directly, you order the sizes you need, and the units are cut, edged and packed for you. We explain the thinking behind that model in our post on how to buy your cupboards direct from the factory. Because there is no retailer in the middle, the price reflects the product more than the shop that sells it.

Compare Board Thickness and Grade

The board is the heart of a cupboard. Most cupboard carcasses are made from melamine-faced chipboard, which is particle board with a melamine surface on both sides. Two details matter.

The first is thickness. Quality units use 16 mm or 18 mm panels, because thinner board flexes under load and holds hinges and drawer runners less securely. The second is grade.

DIY Cupboards uses only A-grade board across the range, because lower grades vary in density, and that can loosen fixings and make panels bow over time.

Whichever supplier you choose, ask for the thickness and the grade in writing. Our guide to the kitchen cupboard carcass explains what to look for in more detail.

Look Closely at the Edging

Raw board absorbs moisture, so the edges of every panel need a sealed finish. In edge banding, a strip of material is glued onto the cut edge and trimmed flush. How well it is done decides whether the edges stay tight or lift in a steamy kitchen.

In our factory, the edging machine and PVC wrapping use adhesives imported from Germany, to reduce the risk of de-lamination. When you inspect any cupboard, run a finger along the edges and check the corners for gaps.

Doors: Melamine or PVC Wrap

Doors are what you see every day, and they take the most knocks. Melamine doors suit a clean, modern look and wipe clean easily, while PVC wrap lets a door have a profiled shape, such as a shaker style. Our page on PVC wrap doors shows what the process makes.

Foil finishes are a different matter. We do not use them, because they are far inferior to melamine or PVC wrap, so ask any supplier what the door finish is made from.

Joints, Backs and Hardware

Look at how a unit is held together. A cam and dowel system makes a tight joint without glue or specialist tools, whereas staples, nails and simple butt joints with screws work loose sooner. Check that the unit has a solid back panel, because it keeps the cupboard square, and wall units hang from it.

Floor units should stand on adjustable, waterproof legs, so you can level them on an uneven floor, and wall units should have adjustable hanging brackets, which let you fine-tune the position after mounting.

Standard Sizes or Cut to Size

Ready-made units come in fixed sizes, and so does our DIY Express range. The difference is what you can do when your space does not fit those sizes. If you need a panel for an awkward gap, a shelf for a wardrobe or a side panel for a run of units, our cutting and edging service cuts and edges the pieces to your measurements, using A-grade melamine boards from PG Bison, Sternwood and Sonae.

This is also a practical route for wardrobes, where people often hire a builder when cut and edged panels would do the job for less.

After-Sales Support

A cupboard is not something you buy every year, so find out what happens after the sale. Our products carry a 2 year guarantee, provided there are no signs of abuse. For parts that come from outside suppliers, such as taps, hinges and pull-out units, we help you claim on the manufacturer’s warranty, which is usually one year.

Read our FAQ for details, and ask every supplier the same questions: how long is the guarantee, who handles claims and what do they not cover?

A Simple Checklist for Comparing Suppliers

• Board grade and panel thickness (16 mm or 18 mm).
• How the edges are finished, and what glue is used.
• What the doors are made from, and whether foil is used.
• How the carcass is joined and whether it has a solid back.
• The guarantee period and who deals with problems.
• Whether you can have panels cut to size if your space is awkward.

If you want a second pair of eyes on your plans, our DIY Designer at the showroom can help you work out which units suit your room.

Not sure which route suits your project? CONTACT US and we will help you compare your options.